On day 11 (January 26), we pulled into the port of Acajutla in El Salvador. I joined an excursion to the city of San Salvador. We visited the cathedral where Monsieur Oscar Romero presided before he was murdered in 1980. Today the (now Saint) Romero’s pictures are just to the right of the altar.
His body has been moved three times and now rests in a bronze tomb, a site for faithful to pray.
Our guide for this trip had a clear narrative linking the start of the twelve year civil war to the murder in 1980 of Romero, who continues to be venerated as an advocate for the poor. Our guide acknowledged the horrific events of the civil war. When the war ended, things improved, but the gangs then took over. With the gangs, there was more violence and lots of disruption. All small businesses had to pay protection money. But today, our guide celebrated the popular president of the country, Nayib Bukele, who has turned the whole situation around. Bukele has improved the capital city and suppressed the gangs.
Not since visiting Saint Petersburg in Russia have I been so aware of the feeling that my experience was being “curated” so that I would come away with the idea that San Salvador is now a safe and good place to come as a tourist. Our guide acknowledged some human rights abuses in suppressing the gangs, but it was justified based on the terrible gang situation, that is now better.
Our experience of San Salvador was pleasant, for us. We were driven to the town center in two modern air conditioned buses and walked around several squares. We had a private tour of the national palace and the cathedral. We walked down several pedestrian streets past stores. It felt safe and easy to navigate. We saw the new library currently under construction, supported by a Chinese firm.
Gradually during the day, however, I began to sense that our ship had the government’s attention. We were the only ship to dock that day. As we walked in the center of San Salvador, there were traffic police. All traffic was stopped so that we could cross the street to stare without a problem at the church or national palace. Military with heavy guns were patrolling everywhere.
The biggest surprise was our trip back to the ship from San Salvador. There was confusion between the tour company and the ship about what time we were supposed to set sail. It became clear we weren’t going to make it back to the ship from the city in time for the ship’s departure.
Our tour guide made a call and an ambulance and police car arrived quickly. They both turned on their sirens and lights and led our busses for the hour and half ride back to the port. Cars pulled over, people stared and we got back only a little late. What a strange and uncomfortable position to be in. Clearly the word was out to make the resources of the government available to get our buses back on time. I assume that any Salvadorans who needed an ambulance during this time would just have to wait.
As we pulled up in front of the ship, we were greeted by at least twenty English speaking people in yellow vests. They asked each of us questions about our experience during the day. What was the best thing about El Salvador? Which one thing didn’t we like? Would we recommend El Salvador? Would we come back?
I am still pondering this visit to San Salvador. I learned quite a lot. It gave me some new perspective and a sense of a possible positive future for people in El Salvador. I also admired the focus of the whole apparatus to try to improve a bad reputation and attract tourist dollars. It seemed serious and well done. It was designed to have me leaving the country spreading a more positive story of El Salvador today, and the strategy was successful, at least somewhat.
At the same time, I am also aware that I got a very limited picture of the country. There was nothing about indigenous people or a view into the perspective of those who do not support the current president. We saw the countryside only from a protected bus. I am still wondering how much of my trip to San Salvador gave me some good information and how much was an experience designed to show things better than they are. Was it a trip past Potempkin’s villages? Perhaps my ambivalence will motivate me to answer the last question in the government’s survey in the affirmative: “Will you come back?” And, I that was the desired result all along.
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Great to hear your observations and reflections. I am not really surprised as it was the very same situation when I visited China in 1991 (just before I starting working at MGH with you! within memory of the Tiananmen Square protests). We were “escorted” everywhere based on a set schedule, and only a couple of private moments with the more adventurous “guides” (university students) revealed some of the off-script information. Despite the curated experience I think we all gained by the cross-cultural exposure. It was interesting to see the younger Chinese stepping outside some of the traditional constraints, especially visible in the shorter and more colorful skirts worn by some young women. So there are some anthropological markers of cultural evolution.
This was a an interesting and disturbing experience all at once. The many thoughtful comments of your friends and family have touched on good points as you ponder what this means for you. I hope all continues to go well and look forward to many posts.
Currently, I am reading a book, entitled THE MYTH OF NORMAL. It is dealing with culture in the United States, but the title, and the issue of what is normal and what is not normal arose in my mind as I was reading your blog – something to ponder.
Interesting and incitefulš„°
Very interesting as I had just finished talking to my client who is a native of El Salvador; whose family still resides there. I know that her experience growing up was not quite like this, and I wonder how she might respond to your experience and comments. She has managed to become a doctor at one of your well known hospitals, Cathy, so… Thank you for sharing your experience; glad you were able to return to your ship safely and timely.
There is always more under the surface. I so value being able to see and learn through your insightful eyes. Tourist dollars can indeed do much, but at what cost.
Wow, what a memorable experience! I’m glad that you got the tour of the cathedral and palace and saw the downtown area and the new library. It sounds like the entire tour was programmed to sell the country as a great tourist destination with comforts ready for any tourist. The last few hours certainly made the day one that you’ll never forget. I’m glad that you made it back to the ship in a safe and timely manner. Thanks again for the blog postings. Enjoy the trip!
Thanks for this thoughtful piece. Keep them coming.
What an interesting and somewhat unsettling experience. I have always very suspicious parts activated when I hear of such curated experience by authority. I understand the economic need but I canāt help wondering: when you control so much the narrative, how much trauma is kept hidden and deprived of a chance of healing.
how interesting. You were there as a tourist—to see the local situation—but it may have all been staged to see El S. as the government wanted you to see it. Having work in a couple dozen countries, i never had this impression…. i guess i am lucky. In your case, it may be that the buses and security you had were protection from gangs or others kidnapping “rich tourists”…….