“I Want to be a Shellback”

A warning up front. This post is about a ritual that, when carried out in the past, can only be described as an initiation hazing that we know can lead to shame and trauma in those who experience it. I tried to make some sense of what I read about this, but kept coming upon all of these articles from sailors who highly valued this experience. So, I’ll just leave it as an open question and let each person decide whether they want to read on.

A sailor who has already crossed the equator and gone through the required ceremony is called a Shellback. This initiation event has a long history. It comes from a time when serious hazing was routinely accepted and held up as building comradery.

The idea is that King Neptune comes onto the ship with his court. A trial is held when Pollywogs (those who have not crossed the equator before) are summoned to court. Various tests are performed, humiliation is offered and the polliwog demonstrates his worthiness. After this and a dunking, the Pollywog becomes a Shellback. King Neptune will bless Shellbacks with protection against certain untoward events (such as being eaten by sharks.)

I found this video of the tradition in the U.S. Navy.

Cruise ships have continued this tradition, although in a much tamer way. This video shows the adaptation for an early pleasure cruise.

Our ship struggled to have its Crossing the Equator ceremony. We actually crossed the equator twice earlier in the cruise, but couldn’t have the ceremony because the COVID levels were too high on the ship. The Insignia finally had its Crossing the Equator Ceremony on March 27 (Day 72). (The third time is a charm.)

King Neptune came onto the pool deck of the ship, along with his court and consort queen. (They looked amazing like two of the singers from the entertainment group.)

King Neptune and his consort aboard the Insignia. March 27, 2023.

King Neptune had two helpers waiting with a fish, which the initiates would be asked to kiss.

Insignia World Cruise Hosts Paula and Carolyn, Neptune’s helpers in Crossing the Line ceremony. March 27, 2023

There was a judge (looked a lot like the cruise director, Ray) would administer justice in the form of unpleasant food items to be put onto the body of those being initiated.

The Judge in Crossing the Line, along with the food items that will be used to torment the Pollywogs. March 27, 2023

Crew members who had agreed to do this were brought forward as uninitiated Pollywogs and underwent the ceremony with good spirits.

Two Mermaids wait with towels as a Pollywog crew member participates. March 27, 2023.

Finally, after the crew members said: “I want to be a Shellback.” Cold water was poured over their heads and they were given a towel to try to clean up.

The final dunking with water after Pollywog crew members have said: “I want to be a Shellback!”

Those passengers who wanted to, could then go through a bit of the ceremony themselves. I chose to do this, just so I’d never have to do it again. I kissed the fish (lightly) and then had water poured over my shoulders. So, now I can say “I am a Shellback”. I’ve crossed the equator and ticked that box.

5 comments

  1. Wow, this is an interesting pivot from the stark realities of Togo and the Ivory Coast, even the highly curated versions. I continue to be fascinated by your blogs, both the experiences that you are sharing, and your reflections. As an anthropology major in college, I could natter on about the importance of ritual to the cohesion of the group, but I will wait till we can actually converse about it. Thanks for sharing these!

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